Since I am really bad at documenting what I do when I’m designing by the seat of my pants, I thought I’d write it out for you here. Like Janine I “encourage freedom and experimentation” so this one isn’t going to be resized for some standard set of sizes. Hopefully by seeing how I’ve done it, you can do your own, using your own measurements.
The yarn: Mission Falls 1824 Cotton (from before the move, but I don’t think it would matter) in Aubergine, Merlot and Ecru. I really like this yarn and it knits up to something with a kind of soft sweatshirt-y feel. So that’s what we are aiming for.
The needles: 4.5mm bamboo circs
The swatch: in these circumstances you need to do one of these just to work out how to start. I knit a 7″ square. Amazing. My swatches are never square. Because I decided on a garter stitch garment, I knit the swatch in garter stitch. My swatch measured 30 stitches by 50 rows (25 ridges) for that 7″. I’ve done all my calculations using the 7″ gauge because the more rounding you do the further out you are.
For those who want to try this yourselves, don’t worry about getting my gauge. Worry about getting a fabric you are happy with in the yarn you want to use. Switch needle sizes if necessary (though I’d start with whatever the ball band recommends modified for what you know about whether YOU knit loose or tight). When you have a nice fabric, measure the gauge of that.
The basic idea: a side to side construction à la Sonnet. I have made the kid’s version of this once (called Haiku; you can find it in the knitty archives). But this sweater is not Sonnet. It’s another side to side garter stitch cardigan.
The measurements: I measured a cardigan that I have that fits well. It is the retro prep that Stephannie gave me. It measures 21″ long at the centre back and 46″ around the chest. Measuring straight across the neck opening is 9″ and the armscye is about 11″. It is a different shape. It has raglan sleeves and the body is shaped (the bottom measures only 42″ for example). I consulted with my partner about whether I wanted to make it longer (perhaps with slits in the sides) and whether there was anything else I should consider changing. He said it was fine the way it was.
The schematic:
I’ve drawn this in Word by attaching a bunch of boxes together. If anyone knows how I can do it without all those intermediate vertical lines, let me know (though I think maybe it helps see how the sweater is constructed). My measurements as I’m going along are a little bit off of what is stated because there isn’t a whole number of ridges per inch but you get the idea. I’ll add to this and modify it as I go along. You will note that, as yet, there are no sleeves. (and I just realized that I forgot the armscye measurement which is about 10.5 or 11″)
How I have proceeded: I cast on 90 stitches using a provisional cast on for the centre back. I am knitting towards the front. After 4″ (15 ridges), I cast on an extra 2 stitches at the neck edge of the next 2 ridges (for a total of 94 stitches which is what gives 22″ in my gauge). I then continued straight to the armscye (21 ridges). I cast off (coming down from the neck edge on the wrong side of that last ridge) 44 stitches (leaving 50 to work) and then knit 18 ridges. I cast-on 44 stitches at the neck edge, and worked … well I’m in the middle of this so it needs to match the shoulder at the back — 21 ridges will happen here and then I will start to decrease one stitch at the neck edge of each ridge until I am down to 78 stitches. I’ll cast off for the front opening. Then pick up from the provisional cast on and go the other way.
What I’m doing with the colour: This was the main reason that I cast on from the centre back. I am making up the stripe sequence as I go along. If you are a planner, you could start at the front edge and knit right around without any problem. I decided that I wanted a wide purple stripe in the centre back. I then decided to play with Fibonacci sequences so the stripes wouldn’t all be the same width but I’d have some organizing principle (I don’t do random very well). As a reminder, the Fibonacci sequence is 0,1,1,2,3,5,8,13… (each number is the sum of the 2 preceding it). I decided that I didn’t want stripes wider than 5 ridges (which is a little over 1″ in my gauge). Initially I forgot about the 0 but when you have 3 colours using the 0 can be interesting. I didn’t have that realization until I hit the armhole.
So, I cast on in Aubergine (P) and knit 2 rows (intending to knit 3 the other way to make this a 5 ridge stripe). Then I introduced the ecru (W) and merlot (R) at the low end of the sequence. Here is what the stripe sequence is so far (from centre back around the right side to the front)
2P, 1W, 1R, 3P, 1W, 1R, 2P, 2W, 2R, 1P, 3W, 3R, 1P, 5W, 2R [you can see here that I decided to take the ecru right up to the 5 wide but only took the merlot up to 3 wide before coming back down the sequence], 2P [I started back up without going down to 0], 3W, 1R, 3P [the cast off for the armscye is in the middle of this], 2W, 1R, 2P, 1W, [0R], 1P, 1W, 1R, 1P, [0W], 1R, [0P], 1W, 2R, 1P, 1W, 3R, 1P, 2W, 5R, 2P… that’s where I am right now. That wide merlot stripe is on the front nearish to the armscye.
I was planning out where I will go from here. I think I have 25 ridges left to get to the front. The next 9 will be 3W, 3R, 3P but then I have some decisions
Option 1: 2W, 2R, 5P, 1W, 1R, 3P, 1W, 1R
This would put a wide aubergine stripe on the right front of the cardigan but everything else would be narrower.
Option 2: 5W, 2R, 2P, 3W, 1R, 1P, 2W
This would make the right front very ecru dominant.
Option 3: 5W, 2R, 5P, 3W, 1R
This option is more balanced in terms of colour and when considered with what is already there on the right front would result in 3 wide stripes, one of each colour.
My thinking so far: I plan to do all the edgings in the aubergine so that will dominate (which is what I want). I have more of it, as well. Also, although I started out intending to make the colour sequence symmetrical from that centre back stripe, I have changed my mind. I now plan to vary the sequence so that the wide white stripe on the right back is mirrored by a wide red stripe on the left back. I could then go for wide stripes under the left arm (there are narrow ones under the right arm, that’s where all the 1 ridge stripes and 0s are) and a bunch of narrow stripes on the left front.
The upshot of that is that I’m going to go with option 3.
I think, for now, that the central panel will be symmetrical (those 1W, 1R bits amongst the declining aubergine sequence) and I’ll reverse the order the 3 colours come in (Right side: P, W, R; Left side: P, R, W) but then I’ll probably take the ecru back down after it gets to 3 ridges wide and let the merlot go up to 5 ridges… After that, I’m not sure. I’ll update you when I’m making those decisions.