Good food June 30
I have been reading a bit of Barbara Kingsolver lately. I had read her fiction several years ago but only recently discovered her non-fiction. I finished her most recent book, Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, a couple of weeks ago. I’ve been mulling over a post inspired by that book for a while but for various reasons haven’t got around to it. Becky posted some interesting thoughts on it yesterday that have motivated me to find the time (and the words). Go read her post, too, as it connects with a previous post of hers on scientific knowledge and the woeful lack thereof. Mother Crone has also posted about it and how it has inspired her to organize their household food differently.
If you haven’t heard of it yet, the book chronicles a year of feeding her family with local food. Barring a couple of exceptions, like coffee, they either grew what they ate or bought it from local producers, preferably ones that they knew. Unlike some other books (like one reviewed by Liz here), Kingsolver takes a very practical approach to feeding her family in a more sustainable way. Her goal is to reduce her impact on the environment, reconnect with the source of food, and gain a better perspective on a whole range of related issues. There is no hard and fast set of rules here (like "everything must come from within 100 miles") but rather a set of principles that guide their decisions. Her husband, Stephen Hopp, provides some scientific detail in each chapter and her daughter, Camille, adds the perspective of a young adult as well as some recipes.
Kingsolver writes beautifully and is worth reading for the quality of the writing alone. But as I have read her essays and then this book length work, I have also found many things that resonate with my own values. She is a working mother, albeit one who can work from home with a fairly flexible schedule. And she does a pretty good job of speaking to an audience of busy people who want to change things but may be put off by some of the more radical versions of a sustainable lifestyle. She doesn’t come across as someone who would chastise you for not doing enough. They decided to go the whole hog, but then they had a piece of agricultural land, experience of vegetable gardening on a reasonable scale, experience of keeping chickens, and those aforementioned flexible jobs.
In fact, the book uses this experiment more as a narrative spine on which to hang a set of reflections on food politics, health, and so on than as a manifesto for a radical political experiment. Even if you don’t change anything about how you eat or buy food, you will learn a lot about the food you eat from this book and why it is the way it is. As such, it would be a useful book for those concerned about food additives, as SamDuck is (see her post on trying to go additive-free).
Among the interesting points, is the extent to which various food related health problems, from obesity to e-coli scares, are related to changes in food production techniques. There are plenty of ways to take action on some of the political issues raised by this book (and others). Changing your own eating habits is only one of them. For folks living in the US, activism around the Farm Bill would also be worthwhile. But changing your food habits is probably a good idea, for several reasons.
Most people will think of their health. And there are significant health benefits related to all those issues about additives, hormones, chemical residues, disease resistant bugs, and acid-tolerant e-coli. In addition, if you are eating locally grown, home cooked food, I’m willing to bet that a lot of high-calorie, low nutrition food is just going to disappear from your diet with tangible benefits for your weight, and general level of health.
Others would make a strong argument for taste and I would be one of them. Food that has to travel a long way is bred to enable it to withstand those conditions and taste often gets a lower priority. Also, many foods lose their flavour over time. The taste of peas and corn picked fresh from your garden is far superior to anything that has waited longer to get to your table. In fact, I know of some recipe books that recommend that you buy a good brand of frozen peas or corn over supermarket ones precisely because they will have been frozen sooner after picking, before too many of the sugars have turned to starch.
Becky has discussed the relationship between food habits and scientific knowledge relating Kingsolver’s discussion to her own experience of raising (and homeschooling) kids on a farm. Knowing where your food comes from means knowing something about biology and the relationship between cause and effect and so on.
We shouldn’t underestimate how far many people are from the knowledge of where food comes from. I recall a student of mine (when I was in the UK) telling me about the time that she and her daugher picked blackberries from the bushes along their fence. They had lots and took a bowl of them to the neighbour in whose garden the bushes actually grow. On being offered the berries, the neighbour looked horrified, threw the berries away and admonished her daughter not to eat them "because they are poisonous". The same neighbour had refused fresh potatoes from her allotment garden because they were dirty. I won’t even tell you what I think of carnivores who don’t want the meat they are eating to look anything like the animal it came from nor hear about it being killed. I have an even lower opinion of people who shun the eating of only certain animals on the grounds that they are "cute".
Beyond health, taste and knowledge, there are important political and economic issues to consider. The more of our food production that is in the hands of large multi-national corporations, the less control we have over it. Already the US has very weak labelling regulations that make it extremely difficult for consumers to exercise what power they might have in a free market. (I’m equally disturbed by the fact that the relevant government department in Canada is called Agriculture and Agri-food Canada.) Neil Gaimen and Terry Pratchett were rather prescient in making Famine (one of the 4 horsemen of the apocolypse) the CEO of a fast food chain in their novel Good Omens.
Lots of folks have some sort of nostalgia for the family farm, but if you eat vegetables out of season and mostly buy your food from large chain supermarkets, your are much more likely to be supporting some big corporate farming organization with the wherewithal to produce vegetables all year round in sufficient quantity to supply that demand. Folks like Audrey rely on folks like you coming out to pick your own strawberries from her relatively small farm (in the years when the weather doesn’t decimate her crop). There still are small farmers out there. It may take a bit more work to find them and you might have to give up the convenience of one stop shopping (not to mention tomatoes in December) but the impact on your local economy might be significant. It isn’t only in the third world that all the profits go whizzing out of the local economy to inflate the coffers of a few rich people somewhere else.
In sum, I would highly recommend reading Animal, Vegetable, Miracle and reflecting on what you learn there. You don’t need to treat it as you would any number of diets with catchy names that you might try for a while and give up on. But you might give serious consideration to how you might begin to incorporate some of these principles into your own life in ways that might be sustainable. I would also recommend Liz’s One Local Summer. Even though she has closed registrations to keep the project under control, you could take her advice without the need to blog about it. And reading the blogs of those who have signed up could be very inspiring.
The beauty of OLS is that it is about starting somewhere. One of the Stephen Hopp authored boxes in Animal, Vegetable, Miracle gives good statistical evidence supporting the value of even small steps (Mother Crone talks about this here). Instead of being overwhelmed by the scale of the problem, and consequently doing nothing, it is worth taking that first small step and seeing where it takes you.
Sometimes it is worth focusing on the goal and seeing how close we are getting, but sometimes it is worth just starting down a better road and keeping going, even if the destination is so far away we have trouble imagining ever getting there. Because even when we can see the destination it is sometimes hard to tell if it is a small thing or a big thing seen from a great distance. Only by approaching it will we work this out. And then we need the stamina to keep moving. Don’t start by sprinting. If it turns out to be further than you think, you’ll run out of energy before you get there. Set a pace you can sustain for a while if you need to. It might take longer, but you’ll get there eventually.




